Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Buenos Aires.... so I don't forget my life there in 30 yrs

Unidos por Noe. Para siempre, te recordare!


People I love in Bs As :

Juan F. Solaegui : Mi porteno favorito

Belen Parodi Sanchez!! mi amor de Literatura Argentina, era mi vecina - vivimos en Recoleta juntas y vimos 'the office' y otros programas de television. charlamos de nuestra drama en la vida y cualquier cosa.. pasamos rebien y vamos a viajar a Francia juntas. me llevo al aeropuerto con sus padres y era lo mejor despedida de buenos aires que pudiera querido... aunque era tan triste booo

Martin de Body Pump: Me trato demasiado bien, me ofrecio su casa para vivir con él por 10 días. Conocimos en nuestra clase de Body Pump en WellClub. Siempre tenía una cara buenisima mientras estaba haciendo ejercicios en la clase. Mar y yo salimos con él para bailar unas veces y vimos Kiley y Cher en su casa.

Tefo : Tefo era la primera chica para invitarme a su casa y una fiesta de disfraces. pasamos muy bien y divertimos mucho en la fiesta. vino marian y las hermanas de tefo. estabamos espanola, brasilera, flight attendant, cupid, y un rockstar.

Iou!: iou invited us to one of her parties our first month in bs as and we had so much fun. I went with Galia and Cati, my california friends and we danced and played games and hung out with the most beautiful people.

Marian: Marian es un amor.. ella es una poeta y era una de las primeras chicas a invitarme a salir. fuimos a la festival de cine internacional en bs as. fuimos a ver dos peliculas con belen y dos otras chicas de letras.

Ines y Noe: fuimos a la fantasma de la opera! tambien sali con estas chicas unas veces. son tan lindas y simpaticas!!

Josefina: me hizo una bufanda hermosa!! siempre hablaba en las clases de literatura y era muyyy buena onda.

Paulo: Even though he's brazilian and lives in Sao Paulo, Brazil, I met him in buenos aires and he is amazing. Cati and I stayed in his house when we went to Brazil and we traveled to the beaches together.








Sunday, February 1, 2009

Steer Clear! World's Most Dangerous Road - AKA road of death....


"Hey Cora! Let's ride bikes down the world's most dangerous road!" - Marlana.... I'm thinking - that should give us the adrenaline kick for our trip in Bolivia. We go ahead and book the trip with Gravity Assisted Mountain Biking (the highly recommended company) the day before our flight to La Paz. Upon arriving at our hostel, we discovered that the majority of the travelers were planning on doing the ride as well, so we weren't too worried.

A brief background on death road: The road was first built by Paraguayan prisoners in the 1930s. It used to be the only link between the 2 Bolivian cities of La Paz and Corioco. It is 64 kilometers (40 mi) stretch of continuous downhill riding for bikers. An estimated 200 to 300 people are killed every year from the 600 m (1969 ft) cliffs the road sits on. The width of the road is the length of of 2 average people laying down with their heads touching ( we have a picture for proof).

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yungas_Road#Mountain_biking

http://www.sawse.com/2008/02/20/road-of-death/

The morning of a very long and painful day at 7:30 am: We meet our tour guide and group at the cafe down the street from our hostel. Our guide is an outspoken young man from Brighton, England and made sure to point this out, and the fact that England is above all, when I called him an Australian mate! He got a kick out of Marlana and I - being from Teeexxxxxxxaaaaaaassss, ' come on Texas - move a little faster!'

Anyway, we get on the tour bus/van and our guide gives us his orientation. "Hello all, let me introduce myself, this is Gravity Biking, I'm from England, where are you from? Oh Australian - you guys need to sit by the Texans over here - I'll repeat everything niiiice and slowwwwww... oh and by the way - look at these horror pictures!' ......And this is where Marlana and I begin to hold our breath...for the entire day.

Our guide's name is Dayle. About 7 minutes into the drive, Dayle begins to tell us stories about all of the bikers who have died/ severely injured themselves on the death road ( these stories include horribly gruesome photographs as well) . The average biker death rate for the road is about 1 person every 2 weeks on average. Marlana and I look at eachother silently saying " WHAT ARE WE DOING?!?" The fact is, we had already paid and there was no turning back. The first story is about a young woman who only used her right brake and ended up severly fracturing her face on the rocks. This small mistake cost her life! Ok , so I never ride bikes....really. And this mistake sounds like the typical Cora error - I'm thinking 'ahh! I am really going to die today!' Other stories include a man who used his brakes with too much force, a man who was passing without properly yelling loud enough to the pasee, and too many more to remember. Throughout this presentation, Dayle repeatedly suggests that these stories are meant for nothing but our safety. His logic: the more terrified and nervous we are, the more deterred we will be from repeating these mistakes.

The Decent

We get to the top of the road from a back highway. We get dressed with the clothing from the biking company which includes ski-like pants ( it is extremely cold and rainy at the top of the road), gloves, helmet, and rain jacket. Also - did I mention we are riding this road in the rainy season? The most dangerous road in the most dangerous season.. can I just say this is more thank enough adrenaline for us at the time. Dayle gives us a brief biking review session - how to brake, ride through curves, etc. We try out our bikes and then begin the decent. Marlana and I are at the back, of course. I am seriously braking ever 2 seconds......( in my head - both hands, both hands!) The first part of the road isn't bad -pavement, relatively wide, and NO CLIFFS.

After about 2 stops, we arrive at the "off-road" section, meaning - no pavement. Our guide informs us that we are about to approach the most dangerous part of the most dangerous road. Here is where we are introduced to the 1300 ft cliffs and the ridiculously narrow width. Right about now, Mar and I aren't speaking to anyone, we are tense beyond belief, and our guide continues with the horror stories. Before we depart, Dayle gives us another brief info session. We are now told that in order to avoid oncoming traffic, bikers must ride on the left side of the road - AKA THE SIDE OF THE CLIFFS. What?! Let me just say that our group consists of about 10 people and Marlana and I are the only ones that are the least bit nervous.... I don't get it. Also - he made it clear that any time we stopped our bikes, we absolutely must get off on the right side of the bicycle - as to avoid stepping off a cliff. This is when Dayle tells us about the French girl. Tragically, she stepped off her bike in the left direction and simply walked off the cliff - and died. She walked off a cliff. Here's a link to her story:
http://www.liebreich.com/LDC/HTML/Climbing/Mountain_Biking_Bolivia.html

Ok, after severly freaking us out, Dayle leads us down the journey. Here is when I realize that this road should be closed and blocked off - or at least be illegal for a tourist destination! We begin to see crosses about ever 50 ft where people have fallen off the cliffs. We can't seem to bring ourselves to ride on the left side of the road because of the narrow width. Mar and I were at the back of the line the entire way down continuously braking....my hands/wrists were killing me. Dayle tries to get us to go faster but we can't! No way was I going to speed down the rocky, dirty, wet road of death.

The Return Trip

After 5 hours of suffering, we make it to the bottom alive and physically uninjured. Our entire group arrives about 30 minutes before us. We have a lunch break and many of the group members decide to have a little party..... on the bus ride back.....this just does not sound appealing to us. I still can't decide which was more frightening - the bike ride down or the bus ride back up. With only inches between us and death, our driver stops the vehicle over the narrowest part of the road and remains there for the longest minute in my life. We proceed to stop for a photo shoot in front of the most photograped section of the road. Dayle - being the sneaky triple scorpio that he is - comes up behind us and holds us both upside down over the cliff. This apparently is very funny and entertaining to him and the rest of the group because everyone seemed to want a picture of this. Finally, we get back on the horror ride and continue on the journey. Dayle proceeds to have his fun, of which Marlana and I do not partake at all, and decides to have random stops like for trout, bathroom breaks (too many), and whatever else he could possibly come up with ..... At this point - I need to get off this road. NOW! We also randomly pick up a bolivian woman and her little boy and one of our group members from Sweden severly embarasses himself. He is obviously an alcoholic and tries speaking spanish to the Bolivians but can't communicate at all. He also unsuccessfully hits on Marlana asking for her name - she replies " I don't want you to call me."

We can see the lights from La Paz! Honestly, I am slightly surprised to have lived through all of this. Needless to say, Dayle did not receive a tip from the girls he almost dropped over a cliff.

LESSON LEARNED: risks>chance of survival = don't ever do this road!!!!!!!!

XOXO
Cora

Transportation Bloopers - Bolivian Version

Cora and I often talk about how entertaining it would be to put our lives (especially this trip) on a reality t.v. show. Several times a day we find ourselves in situations that could only possibly happen to the Cora-Marlana combo. Many of these occur in regards to transportation....which is why we are taking the liberty to write a special Bolivian version.

First of all, en camino a Bolivia, we took a flight on little sleep, no food in our stomachs, and no air conditioning. Both Cora and I had a billion wet paper towels pasted all over our bodies throughout the duration of the flight to avoid passing out and a little girl staring at us the entire 4 hours due to the ubsurdity of the entire situation. Lets just say....we were famous on this flight.

Then we arrive in Bolivia.

Bolivia is AWESOME. We have had a wonderful time in the country and amazing experiences that cannot possibly be expressed in a type-written blog.

However, Bolivia is also famous for its transportation flaws, and Cora and I got the best of it. As follows....


  • Cheap Plane Ride

In order to avoid another 28 hour bus ride across Bolivia, Cora and I went in search of cheap plane tickets, which we found with the help of a local tour agency. Excited that we had outsmarted the bus system, we pranced up to the front airport desk with bags in hand ready for our short, 90 minute flight.

One tiny little problem....not both of our names were in the system. So after some diplomatic Spanish interchange, pleasant tones, and persistence, we were allowed on the flight without knowing exactly what strings had been pulled to permit us to do this. Other than some slight double booking problems we arrived in Santa Cruz, Bolivia successfully.

4 days later.... Our return flight.....

We headed up to the front airport desk with a little more hesitance this time, hoping that for this flight both of our names were in the system. To our surprise, they were BUT they had decided to change the flight time to 1.5 hours later without notification. So we complain a bit, realize thats not going to work, and then try to get over it and seat ourselves in the airport with no air conditioning and scorching hot weather. About 30 minutes before our flight is supposed to leave, we have still not been allowed into the boarding area and a nice woman begins to make conversation with Cora. After about 10 minutes of this, Cora and I head upstairs to find something to eat and before our food had made it to the table, the woman from earlier frantically runs up the stairs, yelling at us in Spanish that we HAVE to hurry or we are going to miss our flight. Cora runs downstairs while I try to tell the waiter that we do not have time to wait anymore. They still do not allow us into the boarding area, however, because our plane had not yet arrived....despite the fact that it should be taking off in the next few minutes. We walk around the airport a bit, only to find the same woman following us again yelling directions at us. She would not leave us alone and was convinced she was right. Cora and I cannot handle the commotion at this point so we go upstairs to try and recover the food we had had to leave and to get away from the entire situation.

We eventually do board the plane....really late....and are a bit frustrated at this point. Lucky for Cora, another nice woman sits next to her on the plane who also feels the need to take good care of the foreigners and repeatedly asks the flight attendants for our food even before the flight takes off and wakes the sleeping Cora up throughout the flight to inform her of our location and tell her about various landmarks. Cora loved it, Im sure....

We were happy when she got off the plane. She got off at the second stop.

YES. The plane landed about 5 different times for a flight that should have taken only one hour directly. Thats like flying from Austin to Dallas....and taking off and landing in Texarkana, Houston, El Paso, Waco, and finally.....Dallas. We spent a lot of time trying to make sense of it without success.

Needless to say, we arrive to La Paz 4.5 hours later than the original ticket stated and desperately rush to catch our overnight bus that was leaving to Uyuni. I will not bore you with those details, but catching the bus successfully involved sprinting down the streets of La Paz, completely out of breath from the extremely high altitude....imagine.

We had a wonderful day in Uyuni and saw the beautiful salt flats (pictures to come). And then....

  • The Bus Ride Back

Just when I was about to write this entry, we had another comical event. After boarding our bus to head back to La Paz (thinking nothing else could possibly go wrong with Bolivian transportation), we walk on to see that they double booked our seats. So we sit down in some empty seats to wait until things get sorted out. The people who had the seats we were sitting in walked on the bus, yelled at us in Spanish because they thought we didnt understand, and hovered over us trying to make us move. (Just for future reference, talking in an elevated tone does not generally increase understanding on the receiver´s end.) We could not budge due to the fact that we were crammed in with all of our stuff in this crowded bus. We simply asked if she could bring the bus manager up so we could sort it all out before we relocated. This was not okay with the woman and she expressed this with continued commotion. To add to it all, in the midst of all of this, someone walked by and accidentally dropped their child´s underwear on my lap....

To make a long story short, we were relocated to the back of the bus, on the bumpiest bus ride ever. I dont think we were even driving on a road, and several times (and I say this with all seriousness), Cora and I thought the bus was going to flip over, and we had our heads covered to avoid glass shattering injuries .... no exaggeration. About an hour into the bus ride, despite a dehydration process in preparation for the bus ride, I had to go to the restroom as did Cora shortly after. The bus did not have a bathroom, and the driver only stops 6 hours into the ride. So for 5 hours, on an incredibly bumpy road, Cora and I, while also fearing for our lives, miserably awaited the bathroom break.

5 hours later, we were able to sleep. And now, all of it is extremely hilarious.

Well, we are about to head out with my really good Bolivian friend, Gustavo, whom I befriended in the uni in Chile. And then we are heading to meet Matias in Peru!

Love you tons,

Marlana

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

The Rainforest




Jan. 16th: Time for the Amazon! Our departure for the rainforest has finally arrived. We've discovered that the best way to plan anything in South America is....to not plan at all! Our flight is to Manaus - the city in the heart of the Brazilian rainforest. After 3 connecting flights beginning at 3 AM( yes you heard me - three connecting flights in the middle of the night), we reach Manaus. So upon arrival, we are in search for a jungle lodge. For a good price. We consider our options and visit a few tourist agencies in the airport. We find a good deal for a lodge on the Rio Negro for 3 nights ( 1 night of camping in the jungle) and 4 days.

Day 1 : Our guide picks us up from the hostel and we get on our motorized canoe to the lodge. We see the meeting of the waters - where the River Negro and the Amazon river meet. After, we see the huge lily pads and 2 crocodiles. Oh and little kids apparently aren't afraid of snakes, crocodiles, huge sloths - they bombarded our boat! So we get to the lodge - it's floating on the river. No electricity, only amazon water, and no lights!! Our room doesn't have 2 mosquito bed nets and Marlana wasn't advised in Chile to bring one so we decide to share mine. Here we are sharing a bed again like summer - except now in Brazil and under a bed net. Que bien! After an exotic lunch and swimming in the river, we go fishing for piranhas. Now let's just say....viscious little creatures. Marlana's hand got bit off! jk jk jk BUT - our guide did tell us that a man had been eaten by an anaconda 2 weeks earlier while he was fishing. haha....

Day 2: After a night of tangled bed net, we wake up for breakfast!! Then off to jungle trekking! The Amazon is filled with anything you could possibly imagine - we found natural malaria medicine,viagra, headache medicine, natural bug spray.... everything! We get back to the lodge and Marlana and I decided to entertain ourselves by having a dance party under the bednet. Of course, this needs documentation so we made a video for our favorite - Adrian Chapa. While we are doing all of these excursions, we're with a group. It's me, Marlana, 3 brazilians, a chinese woman, a taurus named Renaldo, and one japanese man. Now let me tell you about the japanese man. First of all, if you don't speak english or portugese, you will be completely lost. Anyway, this man is super quiet and doesn't know anything that's going on....he has to sleep in the hammock outside of the lodge...i'm sure he wasn't aware of this when he signed up for this shindig. Of course I told the chinese woman i loved her in chinese because that's all I know.





Day 3: Time to prepare for jungle camping. Marlana and I hate packing so we decide to bring as little as possible. This day is our 3rd day without a shower.....but don't worry, we swam every day. That counts right? We take our canoe to the jungle and set up our hammocks. Apparently our guide told us in portugese to put our hammocks in the plastic bag before leaving because it was going to rain. We didn't get that. So our hammocks were drenched. We slept in wet hammocks. But it was awesome!

Day 4: Leave the jungle around 8 am. While the other group members paid to swim with the dolphins, Marlana and I take advantage of the Brazilian sun rays and lay out while our guide drives us around in the canoe. Life in the amazon.....On the way back to the lodge, our guide Charlie decides to take a short cut through the marsh. We get stuck. As the taurus Renaldo takes the lead and steers from the front with a paddle, all of a sudden he starts frantically screaming in portuguese! Marlana and I are like "whaaaaaaat is going on?! Please translate for the Americans! WE DON'T SPEAK PORTUGUESE!' Then the girl translates it to ' alligator, alligator! ah!' Renaldo almost flips out of the boat but I save him, don't worry. The alligator turns out to be a big tree branch. Love it!

While checking in for our flight to Sao Paolo, we have a plastic trash bag filled with all of our untouchable dirty rainforest clothes. Obviously, we want to check this one. The Lan Chile woman looks at us with skepticism and makes us sign a waiver so that if they lose/break it, it's not a liability of theres. WE laugh and say ' they will be careful with that bag because if it opens the whole plane will smell like wet amazon! hahaaha!'


XOXO
Cora





Transportation Bloopers

As stated in a previous entry, our lives in general (but especially in South America) prove to be pleasingly adventurous. While we cannot possibly capture all of our extraordinary moments in a blog, I would like to expand upon a few of our hilarious, frustrating, challenging, dangerous, and (always) adventurous transportation stories.

(Please Note: These take place in Brazil where the official language is Portuguese which neither of us speak nor understand.)


Part 1 - 28 hour bus ride

  • After finishing our time in Rio de Janeiro, we decided to head up to a more northern beach in Salvador, Bahia, Brazil. Finding that buses were the cheapest mode of transportation, we optimistically decided to "enjoy" ourselves on a 28 hour bus ride. Upon arrival to the hectic bus station that felt like it had caught on fire but forgot to burn, we found that the only remaining seats together on the bus were right next to the bathroom .... we each gave a hesitant laugh and proceeded to purchase our tickets. 10 hours later (and with 18 to go), however, we had replaced those smiles with scornful looks to whoever opened the bathroom door. The bus seemed to make a stop every five minutes, but passengers seemed to prefer the onboard bathroom (or the faces we gave them each time they used it). Upon arrival in Salvador, and 2 days of recovery with lying out on the gorgeous beaches of Brazil and drinking as many Coconut waters as possible, we decided never to take a 28 hour bus again.
Part 2 - Taxi Auction

  • After a fabulous and relaxing stay in beautiful Salvador, Cora and I were headed out to the Amazon with our flight leaving at 3 a.m. in the morning. In responsible preparation, we had the hostel pre-call a taxi for us so we would have one waiting for us at 12:30 a.m. Everyone at the hostel was extremely helpful; so helpful, that two people called two different taxis. So, we walk outside at 12:30 only to find two taxis eagerly awaiting our expensive trip to the airport. Both come to take our bags and neither speaks English. We look at them, and each is trying to convince us to ride with them (at least, I think thats what they were saying) for about $30 USD. Deciding to use this high supply as a business opportunity (thank you McCombs), I started an auction and ask for a lower price of $25 USD. Easily receiving that, I asked for a lower price. Needless to say, after a hilarious auction in Portuguese, we were left with a taxi for $12 USD, an angry taxi driver with no customer, and lots of laughs because we didn't understand a word.
Obrigada! (One of the only words I speak in Portuguese.....translates to "Thank you!"),

Marlana

Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Okay....so lets just say that a Capricorn and an Aquarius are traveling around South America together.....and that makes life EXTREMELY interesting. We are currently waiting for our flight to the Amazon which leaves at 3 in the morning and has 3 layovers in the middle of the night. We like to make life as adventurous as possible.

So on our trip so far, we have developed a list of things to do (as follows):

1. Purchase a Brazilian bikini
2. Drink out of as many coconuts as possible
3. Bring Acai (a fibrous fruit) to the U.S.
4. LEARN PORTUGUESE
5. Always find a hostel with a free breakfast, Reggae parties, and crazy people

Brazilians in Brazil.

Love,

Marlana

Beaches in Brazil

The beaches in Brazil are: miles and miles and miles and miles and miles and miles long, white sand, blue water, coconut water, and super strong sun rays - be careful! my spf 50 couldn´t even protect me for long in the brazilian sun. Also, be sure to buy a brazilian bikini or speedo. And work on those butt exercises. Better to stray away from looking like gringos.

LOVE,
Cora